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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.